Gardening Tips for November
What to do in November
‘……no shade, no shine, no butterflies, no birds, November’
Despite Thomas Hood’s gloomy view of November, there should still be some wonderful flashes of colour in your garden. Berries, evergreens in various hues, winter heathers, fragrant viburnum, skimmia, hellebores, violas, cyclamen and winter pansies are just a few of the cheery characters that liven what can be a pretty dismal month!
Plant and move trees and shrubs
On the glass half full rather than half empty principle, November counts as the beginning of the gardening year rather than the end of it.....
Plant bare rooted stock and move deciduous shrubs and trees. Plants are relatively dormant now and there is still enough warmth in the soil to allow them to become established before the really harsh weather sets in. Plant bare rooted stock by digging in plenty of organic matter, excavate a large enough hole to accommodate the roots easily, stake, if necessary, on the windward side to prevent rubbing, plant to the same depth as before (look at where the stem becomes darker), fill the hole, firm well, mulch with a good layer of organic matter and keep watered. Protect newly planted trees, hedges and shrubs from the elements with a temporary netting windbreak if the spot is windy or exposed.
Now is the ideal time to plant roses, but remember, it is essential that the hole is deep enough for soil to cover the graft union; lay a stick across the hole with the rose in place to make sure!
If you are moving a plant, do so with as much soil as possible around the root ball but bear in mind that if trees and shrubs are more than a couple of years old they are unlikely to survive a transplant.
DID YOU KNOW?
Harry Williamson, founder of the Wyevale group, was one of the pioneers of container grown plants in the British garden centre industry. In the 1930s he experimented with growing roses in reject tins from the local jam factory ultimately enabling gardeners to buy and plant trees and shrubs year round; until then, planting was effectively limited to bare rooted stock in autumn and winter.
Pruning can be carried out from now on throughout the dormant season. Once the leaves have fallen it is easier to see the overall shape and prune accordingly. Leave tender plants, evergreens and prunus varieties (ornamental cherries, plums and almonds) until spring. Shrubs, climbing roses and bush roses will greatly benefit from a reduction in height to prevent wind rock as the weather worsens.
Dig over and mulch beds, borders and vegetable plots
Unless your soil is heavy clay, in which case it is probably too late, winter digging is a priority for beds that are bare in winter. Add a layer of compost or well rotted manure and dig it in by turning over spadefulls so the organic matter is buried below the surface. If this seems too much like hard work, just mulch the bed and leave the rest to the worms! If your soil is thin or heavy clay, just fork it over now; too much digging on the former will bring up infertile matter from below whilst great chunks of wet clay will remain rock solid over the winter and become nigh on impossible to break up next year.
Tidy the garden
Cut down dead stems and clear the tatty remains of annuals. Try to leave a little cover for wildlife shelter, but by this time of year leaving sodden debris and fallen leaves around plants will only encourage pests and disease.
Clear fallen leaves
Fallen leaves are unsightly, slippery and also damaging if left in situ. They prevent light and air getting to plants and lawns and these dark, damp conditions are heaven on earth for slugs and snails. Fallen leaves will rot down into fantastic leafmould in a year (2 for oak leaves); store wet leaves (they must be wet to rot - if they are dry (some hope!) dampen them well before storing) in large black plastic sacks forked with holes or piled into a chicken wire container or similar. Failing that, add them to the compost heap.
Move tender plants into the greenhouse and raise containers off the ground
As temperatures drop either move tender plants inside or keep a supply of fleece, bubble wrap or similar to protect them from freezing conditions. Containers can become waterlogged if left on the ground so raise them where possible on feet, tiles or even bricks. If cold weather looks likely try and lag pots and containers as even if the plant is hardy, root systems above ground may not survive.
Winter is tough for birds – do make sure there is a clean supply of water available and that after a frost it does not remain frozen. Buy good quality bird food and fat or suet balls, ensure feeding stations are well out of the way of cats and enjoy the company of our feathered friends throughout the winter!
Lawns
If it is really wet or frosty, keep off the lawn as much as possible to avoid damage. Remove leaves which, left in place, will encourage fungal disease and bare patches. Either rake them up and make leafmould or mow the leaf- strewn lawn with mower blades set high and the grass box in place.
New turf can still be laid before the ground becomes sodden or frozen and if you are planning to sow or lay a new lawn next spring, there is still time to prepare the ground so it is in tip top condition.
Mow as and when necessary – a light trim every 2 – 3 weeks is probably enough; milder winters mean that no longer can we abandon the lawn mower come autumn as a matter of course.
Have your lawn mower serviced; leaving it until spring just places your machine firmly at the back of a long queue!
Bulbs
Plant tulip and hyacinth bulbs now. Tulips are best left until November when the soil is cooler to help avoid the fungal disease ‘tulip fire’. Plant in a sunny spot at 2 – 3 times their own depth on a thin layer of grit to prevent them rotting. Pot up amaryllis bulbs, water, keep them in a warm place (near a radiator is ideal) and cross your fingers that they will flower in time for Christmas.
DID YOU KNOW?
In February 1637 at the height of tulipomania in Holland, one tulip bulb of Admiral van Enkhuijsen changed hands for 5,400 guilders, the equivalent in today’s money of £360,000!
Annuals and bedding
Heavy frosts may well be on the agenda this month so protect any young hardy annuals planted recently with fleece or a cloche if the weather looks ominous.
Liven up your borders, hanging baskets and containers with winter bedding such as pansies, violas and cyclamen.
This is absolutely the last chance to plant out spring bedding such as sweet williams, wall flowers and forget-me-nots.
Divide fibrous rooted perennials such as asters and golden rod. Cut them down to 4”, dig them up and divide carefully. If your soil is heavy clay, leave this job until springtime. All other perennials are also best left until the spring.
Lift tuberous begonias and dry them somewhere frost free. Once the old stems have fallen away, clean the tubers and store them in a cool dry place. Also lift and store dahlias once frost has turned the leaves black. Cut down to 6”, lift the tubers, wash clean and dry upside down to allow the sap to drain out of the stems. Once completely dry, store in nets or in a well ventilated box – keep an eye on them; if they start to rot, cut out the damaged area and treat the cut surface with powdered sulphur.
Cut back ornamental grasses and bamboos; if the latter are thick enough, the canes can be used as supports next season.
Hellebores, despite their moniker of Christmas roses, are sadly rarely in flower for Christmas itself, but will be available in flower at the centre in December. Try potting up a few plants and keeping them in a gentle heat; it may encourage them to bloom a little earlier than they naturally would.
Now is the perfect time to plant soft fruits such as raspberries, gooseberries, blackberries and currants. Plant in well prepared soil enriched with plenty of compost or well rotted farmyard manure, to the same depth as they were before. Blackcurrants, however, should be planted lower than usual in the planting hole with 3-4” stem below ground level as this encourages new growth from the base of the plant.
Prevent winter moth damage to fruit trees by using grease bands around the trunks – not hugely attractive but very effective!
Prune established apple and pear trees – keep the centre of the tree fairly open to allow air to circulate freely which helps avoid disease. Ensure any crossing and rubbing branches are cut out – open wounds will only encourage disease. If you are unsure about how to prune, please ask for advice at the garden centre.
Check stored fruit and throw out any that show the slightest sign of rotting – once even one starts to go, the rot will spread like wildfire and your entire store will be ruined.
Vegetables and herbs
Now is the time to plant garlic – sow individual cloves into well prepared ground so just the tip shows. Plant in rows spaced so you can hoe between them easily; by June it will be ripe if you plant it now – if you miss the boat this month, wait until March for harvesting in September.
Pot up chives and mint roots to grow inside on a sunny windowsill over the winter; the warmth will con them into thinking it’s time to grow! Cut them little and often and keep them well watered for lovely fresh herbs all winter.
Continue to harvest carrots, leeks, Brussels sprouts (from the bottom upwards), carrots and parsnips (after a frost).
